Malverleys is a heavenly retreat on a summer’s day. From the moment you enter the Wessex Downs country lanes, you are transported into a world of meticulously manicured greenery, with flourishing nurseries, lawns, and flowerbeds. This picturesque setting is complemented by a charming restaurant, deli, cafe, farm, gift shop, and lecture room. It’s like stepping into a classic English storybook, where the Famous Five have transformed into gracious hosts, with Peter Rabbit and Mrs Tiggy-Winkle tending to the cottage garden. The farm-to-plate experience here is truly exceptional.
Although my visit to Malverleys coincided with a series of torrential downpours in the summer of 2023, I imagined how delightful it would be to meander through the garden under the warm sun, participate in a “hand-tied bouquet workshop,” purchase fresh produce straight from the plots, and enjoy a rhubarb and magnolia danish pastry on the terrace.
The rain couldn’t dampen the spirits of visitors, who bravely ventured out wearing cagoules and sou’westers, carrying their £4 croissants to the damp terrace. It was a quintessentially English experience, with people refusing to let a little bad weather ruin their day at Malverleys. Similarly, the rain couldn’t dampen my enthusiasm for the charming gift shop, stocked with an array of irresistible items. Jars of Freda’s Cornish sea salt peanut butter sat alongside high-quality Al Qadarif sesame tahini. Bohemian Thunders Love recycled cotton socks, hand-whittled serving spoons, and handcrafted soaps added to the allure. In that moment, I longed to be the type of woman who took watercolour classes in farm shops, surrounded by artisanal ceramics and organic globe artichokes. At Malverleys, even if only temporarily, I could embrace that lifestyle.
The shop and deli act as a prelude to the main attraction – the formal restaurant headed by chef Hugo Harrison. From Thursday to Sunday, Harrison curates a short, but exquisite, set-lunch menu featuring locally sourced and freshly baked items. The options include two courses for £25 or three for £30, with additional dishes available for £5 each to enhance the meal. If you have a hearty appetite, these extras are a must.
Despite the limited choices, our experience quickly became delightful. We were served generous portions of freshly baked sourdough, accompanied by freshly churned salted butter. For non-pork eaters like us, the brawn with pickled gooseberries was substituted with fresh ricotta alongside pickled beetroot and carrot, and it did not disappoint. The house pickles added a sharp, crunchy element that was impossible to resist. The panisse, or chickpea chips, were crispy and accompanied by a delicious lovage sauce. An additional starter course featured British bresaola, which was incredibly fresh and wonderfully sourced. However, it became apparent that even with the extra courses, portions were not abundant.
The main course consisted of a small bowl of fresh maltagliati pasta, paired perfectly with a sauce made from Coolea, an Irish cheese with a honey-like sweetness, and sauteed chard. We supplemented our meal with a plate of beautifully dressed lettuce leaves in various hues, adding a fairytale-like touch. While the flavors were exceptional, it was evident that the portions were not large.
To finish off the meal, we enjoyed meringue with strawberries and cream, a refined version of the classic Eton mess. The meringue was a revelation, unlike any I had tasted before. It had a brilliant, fresh, and chewy texture, subtly flavored with cherry blossom. Served with strawberry syrup, fresh berries, and whipped cream, it was utterly glorious. Up until that point, I had never understood the appeal of meringue, but this experience changed my perspective entirely. Including soft drinks, the bill came to £80 before service charges, which I happily added, as everything was truly delightful.
Malverleys is still in its early stages, but it is evident that it strives to be a top-class yet affordable restaurant, creating delightful dishes using more accessible ingredients such as pickles, pasta, and lettuce. However, the portion sizes may leave some diners wanting more. Nevertheless, as a destination for a countryside excursion, an opportunity to peruse the shop, and indulge in a brief yet meaningful meal, Malverleys is simply irresistible. On my way home, I may have eaten my emergency car Mars bar, but my feet were snugly enveloped in the finest reclaimed cotton socks.
Location: Malverleys Sungrove Farm, East End, Newbury, Berkshire
Phone: 01635 635608
Opening hours: Thursday to Sunday, lunch only, from noon to 2pm
Prices: Two courses for £25, three courses for £30 (drinks and service charges not included)
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