Edward Sexton, who passed away at the age of 80, was highly regarded by his loyal customers for his 54 years of exceptional tailoring. Known for his long-bodied suits with tasteful lapels, Sexton had a unique ability to create garments that accentuated the shoulders, provided a youthful waist, and maintained a comfortable fit along the spine. The width of Sexton trousers varied with the times, but never to the point of absurdity. The legendary suit pants worn by the Beatles’ Ringo and Paul on their iconic Abbey Road album cover in 1969 perfectly embodied Sexton’s impeccable proportions.
While Sexton appreciated the inventiveness of young-male-gear boutiques down Kings Road, he found their fit and fabric quality to be inconsistent and subpar. This deeply offended Sexton, as he considered tailoring to be his true calling. He believed in the meticulous art of measuring, cutting, and hand-sewing typical of Savile Row. With this in mind, Sexton partnered with salesman and designer Tommy Nutter, securing financing from Cilla Black and Peter Brown, the Beatles’ management man and Nutter’s lover. Together, they established their store, Nutter’s of Savile Row, on Valentine’s Day in 1969.
Nutter, with his memorable surname and charming personality, brought an innovative and playful attitude to Savile Row. The store’s front door was adorned with empty champagne bottles serving as knockers, and entry did not require personal or family introductions. The shop boasted a large window displaying eye-catching garments, and the interior was filled with clothes draped over chairs and dustbins. Stuffed rats in tuxedos or other whimsical displays were not uncommon. Nutter’s became a party destination for customers seeking exquisite outfits made with traditional skills, mainly those working in the creative industries.
Sexton’s expertise lay in his exceptional skills and his ability to envision the ideal shape for his clients. He and Nutter both had a fondness for the feminine curves prevalent in tailoring from the 1930s and early 40s. These sensuous elements, such as double-breasted cuts and voluptuous lapels, were seamlessly integrated into Sexton’s core design. The Sexton suit exuded glamour without sacrificing comfort, as seen through its timeless appeal on artists like Elton John, Eric Clapton, Paul McCartney, and more recently, Jarvis Cocker and Rick Astley. Even renowned artist David Hockney favored Sexton’s suits, as they perfectly complemented his artwork.
Sexton’s design sensibility also extended to women’s fashion. In the mid-60s, women’s “trouser suits” lacked flattering contours and were often designed flatly. However, Sexton’s unique undulating cuts suited a wide range of female figures, from Twiggy and Yoko Ono to Annie Lennox. Sexton even created Mick Jagger’s iconic pale three-piece suit for his marriage to Bianca in 1971, along with many other exceptional designs for her.
In recent years, Sexton’s revamp of Harry Styles’ wardrobe with sorbet-colored suits showcased his ability to adapt to evolving fashion trends. Sexton took pride in allowing women to shop and work on Savile Row, even arranging an internship for Stella McCartney, Paul McCartney’s fashion student daughter. Sexton acknowledged the significance of needle and cloth craftsmanship for McCartney, ultimately leading her to take over at Chloé in Paris.
For Sexton, Savile Row held a deep connection throughout his life. Born in Dagenham, London, he was raised in Elephant and Castle and attended English Martyrs school in Southwark. At a young age, he had already begun working in his uncle’s tailoring workshop, eagerly awaiting the day he could trade his shorts for the stylish grey flannel trousers popular among teddy boys in the revived Edwardian silhouette. Sexton’s journey into tailoring continued as he worked part-time with a West End tailor and later as a waiter at the Waldorf hotel, where he gained insight into a life of style. Acting on his father’s advice, Sexton sought to learn a skilled craft and become his own boss. He found a job at Harry Hall on Regent Street, finished his studies at Barrett Street technical college, and subsequently joined the esteemed Cyril Castle as a tailor.
Finally, his ambitious dream came true when he secured an apprenticeship at Kilgour, French & Stanbury in Savile Row, learning the art of cutting from Fred Stanbury himself. Though he faced snobbery due to his Cockney accent and non-conventional appearance, Sexton refused to let it affect him. He embraced his gravelly voice and maintained a touch of punk in his hairstyle. At the age of 24, Sexton became the cutter at Donaldson, Williams & Ward, where he met his future partner, Nutter, in the Burlington Arcade showroom. Sexton had already established his own clientele and had a workroom in Soho. Their bold venture on Savile Row, the first in a century, lasted until Sexton bought out Nutter and became the managing director in 1976, driven by a pragmatic approach to the business.
As rents on Savile Row rose, Sexton relocated his workshop to Beauchamp Place in Knightsbridge in 1990. There, he attracted a steady stream of clients who sought his unparalleled craftsmanship. In 2020, the Pollen Estate, an owner of part of Savile Row, invited Sexton to return and opened a stunning store just a few doors away from Nutters. This marked Sexton’s triumphant return to his beloved craft. He once remarked, “I don’t think I’ve ever really ‘worked’ a day in my life because it’s been such a joy… It’s not a job, it’s a passion.”
Edward Sexton is survived by his wife Joan Carter, their children Angela, Paul, and Philip, and a legacy of exceptional tailoring.
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