The kitchen table in my kitchen is a unique piece made of bog oak, originally from the Fens. Its dark, rich color resembles that of a decadent chocolate cake. The surface has a matte finish, except for a worn patch that has become shiny over the years. This spot is where I sit and write notes on my vintage fountain pen, which eventually transform into my weekly column for the Observer. I’ve been writing these letters to you from this very kitchen for the past 30 years.
These handwritten notes are inspired by the season and the best ingredients available at the time, as well as my extensive collection of kitchen diaries and recent culinary experiments. I jot these notes down before I even go to the shops or the market, before I cook and test and retest a recipe. There are no recipe developers or food stylists involved, and no fancy props for photography. I simply cook as if I’m making dinner, plate it or place it in a dish that looks appealing, and then Jonathan Lovekin, the photographer who has been a part of this column for almost as long as I have, takes a picture. After the photo shoot, we sit down together and enjoy the food. Any leftovers are packed up for Jonathan to take home, or for me to enjoy over the next day or two. And then, of course, I wash the dishes.
When I was offered this column in the Observer’s weekly magazine back in 1993, I was both surprised and slightly intimidated. Surprised because I hadn’t even applied for the position – the suggestion came from Matthew Fort, the writer of the Guardian’s restaurant column at the time, to whom I am forever grateful. And intimidated because I was following in the footsteps of Jane Grigson, a writer I admired more than anyone else, who had held the position for over 20 years. There had been a brief period during which Leslie Forbes had written beautiful essays and recipes, before I took over.
My debut column began with the line, “It has been a good week for flavor,” and the recipes celebrated the arrival of the first damsons of the season (the accompanying recipe was a compote with a hint of gin) and a harvest of red peppers, which I roasted with thyme and garlic and served with their caramelized juices and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. In that column, I emphasized the importance of using the roasting juices in the dressing, a detail that has been a recurring theme in my recipes for the past three decades. To me, these little details are what give a recipe its heart and soul.
The intricacies of cooking continue to fascinate me, as does the time spent in the kitchen, engaging in little tasks that bring joy. To this day, there is nothing that makes me happier than preparing a meal for someone to enjoy. It is my passion and purpose, and I hope to continue doing it every day for the rest of my life.
I should mention that I haven’t always been alone in my kitchen. I spent a decade cooking with James Thompson, who is now the founder of The Great Oven, a project that builds community ovens in areas of conflict. And more recently, I have had the pleasure of working with Giles Cooper, who has painstakingly retested recipe after recipe. I owe a huge thank you to my editors, the sharp-eyed subeditors who have saved me countless times, the picture editors, and everyone at the Observer who has helped bring this column to life on the page and screen. But above all, I want to thank you, the readers, for reading my words and following my recipes all these years. Thank you.
It would be nearly impossible for me to choose my favorite recipes among the thousands I’ve published over the years. However, I have compiled a collection of the recipes that have been mentioned most frequently by you, the readers, and have apparently become fan favorites.
Recipe: Roast Pumpkin with Couscous and Date Syrup
Ingredients:
– 1kg (unpeeled weight) pumpkin
– 60ml olive oil
– 1 tbsp za’atar
– 1 tsp dried chili flakes
– 65g couscous
– 20g coriander
– 10g parsley leaves
– 4 tsp date syrup
– 1 clove garlic
– 5 tbsp olive oil
– Juice of ½ lemon
– 1 tsp grain mustard
Instructions:
1. Preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Peel the pumpkin, remove the fibers and seeds, and cut the flesh into 2cm thick slices. Place the slices on a baking sheet.
2. In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, za’atar, and dried chili flakes. Spoon the mixture over the pumpkin slices.
3. Bake the pumpkin in the oven for 35-40 minutes, or until tender and translucent.
4. Meanwhile, bring a kettle of water to a boil. Put the couscous in a separate bowl, then pour enough boiling water over it to cover. Set aside to soak.
5. In another bowl, prepare the dressing by mixing together the date syrup, crushed garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, and grain mustard.
6. Chop the coriander and parsley. Once the couscous has absorbed the water, fluff it with a fork and fold in the chopped herbs. Season with salt and black pepper.
7. Remove the pumpkin from the oven and place it on a serving plate. Spoon the couscous alongside the pumpkin. Finally, drizzle the date dressing over the dish.
Recipe: Baked Squash with Sauerkraut and Gruyère
Ingredients:
– 1 medium-sized squash
– Olive oil or cream, for roasting
– Sauerkraut
– Gruyère cheese, grated
Instructions:
1. Preheat the oven to a high temperature.
2. Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Place the squash halves, cut side up, in a roasting pan.
3. Drizzle the squash with olive oil or pour cream over it, allowing the fat to seep into the flesh.
4. Roast the squash in the oven until the flesh is tender and the edges have caramelized.
5. Once the squash is cooked, remove it from the oven and fill the cavities with sauerkraut and grated Gruyère cheese.
6. Return the squash to the oven and bake until the cheese is melted and bubbly.
7. Serve the baked squash as a main dish or a side dish, accompanied by a green salad or crusty bread.
Throughout the years, I’ve featured countless recipes for roasted vegetables in this column. From the very first recipe for red peppers with garlic and olive oil to various versions of stuffed tomatoes and peppers, I’ve explored the wonderful flavors and textures that arise from baking vegetables in the oven.
It’s fascinating to see how certain ingredients like date syrup and za’atar have become more prominent in my recipes after my trips to the Middle East, especially Lebanon. The slightly tangy sweetness of date syrup, reminiscent of pomegranate molasses, pairs beautifully with the tender, fudgy flesh of roast pumpkin. This dish serves four and is a perfect example of the delicious and diverse vegetarian recipes that have become mainstream in today’s culinary landscape.
Something magical happens when vegetables are roasted in the oven. The flesh absorbs the creamy richness of cream or olive oil, creating a luscious texture. The cooking juices that collect in the pan add depth and flavor, while the edges of the vegetables caramelize and sweeten. It’s no wonder that I’ve explored baking almost every vegetable imaginable in this column, from tomatoes filled with pesto to peppers stuffed with feta cheese.
As I flip through my collection of press cuttings, I’m struck by the fact that my recipes have become longer over the years. There are several reasons for this. First, recipes now include more ingredients compared to the past three decades. This is partly due to the increased availability of ingredients and the rise of cooking as a hobby rather than a necessity. Second, there has been a generation of people who haven’t been taught to cook at school, resulting in a need for more detailed instructions in published recipes.
Despite the changes in cooking trends and the ever-evolving culinary landscape, the intricacies of cooking continue to captivate me. The joy of spending time in the kitchen and the little tasks that bring happiness are what fuel my love for this craft. I hope to keep cooking and sharing my passion with you for many more years to come.
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