As David Brooks sat down to enjoy a meal at Newark Liberty International Airport, he couldn’t help but express his bewilderment at the exorbitant price of his dinner. The New York Times columnist seized the opportunity to capture the moment, snapping a photo of his untouched burger and fries, adorned with lettuce, tomato, and empty ketchup packets, all accompanied by what appeared to be a glass of whiskey on the rocks. In a tweet that has since gone viral, garnering over 34 million views on the platform, Brooks exclaimed, “This meal just cost me $78 at Newark Airport. This is why Americans think the economy is in shambles.”
Although this initial complaint about the cost of airport food seemed like an ordinary grievance, it quickly transformed into a viral sensation, with many internet users turning it into the latest meme. However, critics were quick to point out that Brooks failed to mention that the majority of his bill likely came from the expensive liquor he indulged in, with a burger and fries typically priced at around $17 or $18 at the airport restaurant.
Sleuths on the internet deduced that Brooks had dined at 1911 Smoke House Barbeque, a Trenton-based restaurant that recently opened a location in Terminal A of the airport. In response, the restaurant, known for its slogan “You can’t beat our meat,” called out Brooks for misleading his 253,000 followers by not acknowledging that his drink contributed significantly to his bill. X, the platform on which Brooks posted, has added a note to his tweet to provide users with more context surrounding this widely discussed airport meal.
The owner of 1911 Smoke House Barbeque, Maurice Hallett, expressed gratitude for the overwhelming support his restaurant received in the wake of this controversy, despite corporate partners advising him to remain silent on the matter. Hallett emphasized the importance of supporting small businesses, especially during challenging times.
Reflecting on his ill-conceived tweet, Brooks admitted his insensitivity and acknowledged his mistake. In an interview with PBS NewsHour, he recognized that his post gave the impression of being oblivious to the struggles faced by those living paycheck to paycheck. He regretted complaining about sticker shock, acknowledging the stark contrast between his inconveniences and the genuine hardships faced by families struggling to make ends meet.
Brooks declined to comment further on the matter, and a spokesperson for The New York Times also refrained from offering a statement. SSP America, the food travel company partnered with 1911 Smoke House Barbeque, expressed disappointment in Brooks’s tweet and hopes to provide him with a more positive dining experience in the future.
The issue of high prices for airport food has long been a concern for travelers. However, airports have made efforts in recent years to improve the quality and variety of food options available to passengers, often partnering with renowned chefs and featuring beloved local establishments.
In 2022, officials in New York implemented measures to curtail exorbitant prices at the region’s airports, capping prices at “street prices” plus 10 percent. This decision came after an outrage-inducing incident where a drink was priced at $27.85 at New York’s LaGuardia Airport.
For Hallett, opening 1911 Smoke House Barbeque was an escape from the rigidity of corporate life. He and his brother pursued their passion for barbecuing, ultimately opening a restaurant in Trenton. The success of the restaurant led to regional attention, especially after the introduction of a menu item inspired by a scene in the movie “I’m Gonna Git You Sucka,” where a character requests a single rib and a sip of Coke. Hallett offers this exact combo for $2.15.
Although Hallett couldn’t delve into the specifics of Brooks’s critique regarding prices, he pointed out that the cost of a burger at his restaurant is comparable to that at other airport establishments, suggesting it is an industry standard.
Taking advantage of the viral attention surrounding Brooks’s tweet, 1911 Smoke House Barbeque proudly announced on Facebook that they were the talk of America. Hallett even introduced a new menu item in response, the “D Brooks Special,” which includes a burger, fries, and a double shot of whiskey for the much more reasonable price of $17.78. Hallett plans to make this item a permanent part of the menu, placing it below the already dedicated menu item honoring Chris Rock.
While Hallett sent the details of the “D Brooks Special” to SSP America to have it added to the airport menu, he doubts it will be included. However, he hopes that customers will continue to support small businesses, particularly small Black-owned enterprises.
When asked if he thought Brooks would return to the restaurant, Hallett initially declined to comment, but then expressed confidence that the columnist would make a repeat visit. “I’m sure he will,” he stated with a laugh.
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