When I see a well-dressed gentleman on the street, it brings me immense joy. There’s something about seeing a man engaged in a quiet activity, like sitting at a cafe or reading a newspaper, that gives me the opportunity to appreciate the subtle details in his outfit. It’s those little things that catch my eye – a crisp pleat in his trousers or the combination of textures, like a cable knit on tweed.
In my opinion, paying attention to these subtle details requires a certain kind of presence. Someone who can effortlessly pair navy linen with black suede loafers in a way that complements his tan must truly take pleasure in observing the world around him.
Of course, pulling off polished menswear goes beyond just having a good eye. It requires knowledge and preparation. You need to understand how to properly care for your garments, beyond simply dropping them off at the dry cleaners every Saturday. To shed light on this topic, I’ve gathered insights from three stylish men who know a thing or two about clothing care.
“The goal isn’t perfect cleanliness,” says Patrick Johnson, the founder of tailor P Johnson. His number one rule when caring for clothes is to do the least amount possible. Over-laundering can be detrimental to garments, so he advises against it. When he comes home from a late night, he hangs up his clothes before going to bed, allowing them to air out. If possible, he suggests hanging them in a covered outdoor space.
To maintain the crease in his trousers, Johnson hangs them over the bar of a coat hanger with the fly open. When doing laundry, he opts for the lowest temperature, shortest and gentlest cycle possible, using the bare minimum of detergent for washable cottons, linens, and most synthetics. For merino and cashmere knits, he recommends hand-washing in lukewarm water with a few drops of wool detergent, as these fabrics are naturally odor-retardant. After washing, he suggests hanging everything up to dry, except for socks, underwear, and bed linens.
When it comes to dry cleaning, Johnson takes a minimalist approach. He believes it should only be done when absolutely necessary. Rather than relying on dry cleaning, he prefers to sponge and press his suits, as many of them have never seen a dry cleaner.
Another expert in the realm of laundry is Jordan Turner, the writer and owner of Sydney bookshop Gertrude and Alice. Turner has been doing his own laundry since he was a child. One incident involving a velour tracksuit that came out of the wash and dryer looking transparent prompted him to take charge of his own clothes. He now has his own laundry rules.
Turner sorts wash loads into whites, darks, blues, and neutrals. He washes everything on cold and avoids using the dryer altogether. To clean his clothes, he uses a combination of laundry detergent products, such as Leif x Jac+Jack’s detergent, Omo in small amounts, and a quarter of the recommended dosage of fabric softener. For whites, he adds a small amount of Napisan. He only washes jackets, pants, denim, and sweaters when they have stains or are noticeably dirty, as he believes that material quality can change with each wash. To protect his outerwear and keep it clean, he wears underlayers like undershirts or lightweight tees.
Matthew Lennon, Sarah and Sebastian’s global head of brand, prioritizes quality clothing made from natural materials like organic cotton, wool, and linen. This not only ensures durability but also simplifies the care routine. Most of his everyday clothes can be thrown in the washing machine on a regular wash cycle. He separates colors from whites when doing laundry. As Lennon avoids using the dryer, his washing schedule depends on the weather. He takes advantage of hot, sunny days to air-dry his clothes, as there’s nothing quite like the freshness of air-dried garments. Instead of an iron, he uses a clothes steamer, which has been a gamechanger for him. He also carries a mini steamer for travel. For delicate items like silk shirts, cashmere sweaters, or garments that require precise pressing, he visits the dry cleaner sparingly, usually getting two to three wears out of them before sending them in.
In summary, caring for your clothes and maintaining a polished appearance goes beyond surface-level cleanliness. It involves understanding the fabrics, using minimal detergent, avoiding over-laundering, and finding alternative methods like air-drying and steaming. By following the advice of these men-about-town, any gentleman can take pride in his well-maintained wardrobe.
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