Eleven Madison Park, the world’s groundbreaking Michelin three-star vegan restaurant, commemorates its 25th anniversary with a unique and retrospective all-vegan menu for the entire month of October. While EMP was not initially plant-based, the foundation for its transition was already present. As the late Steve Jobs once remarked, sometimes one can only understand their present by examining the past. Chef Daniel Humm, renowned for his recently released culinary masterpiece “Eat More Plants: A Chef’s Journal,” curates a menu that showcases the evolution of his cooking and allows the brilliance of plant-based ingredients to shine.
Starting at $195 per person for the bar menu and ranging up to $365 per person for 9 to 10 courses in the dining room, diners can indulge in a gastronomic journey unlike any other. The menu features inventive dishes such as a carrot tartare that expertly mimics the flavors of traditional steak tartare, with mini ingredients that diners can mix at their table. Other highlights include bread and sunflower butter, white truffle tortellini with chestnut and ‘ricotta,’ tonburi with avocado and cucumber, and a grilled maitake mushroom skewer with juniper and pine.
This momentous occasion also coincides with the launch of Chef Daniel Humm’s fifth cookbook, “Eat More Plants: A Chef’s Journal.” The profound impact of Eleven Madison Park is not lost on Humm. In an interview with Side Dish, he shares, “This restaurant has been my life. There’s no place in the world where I’ve spent more time. I never imagined, 19 years ago when I moved to New York, that this would be my only job. It’s been a meandering journey, filled with successes and setbacks, but the fact that a restaurant can remain relevant for 25 years is a blessing. I am grateful for the energy, passion, and interest we continue to generate through our work.”
Established in 1998 by restaurateur Danny Meyer, EMP truly found its identity in 2006 when Humm and Will Guidara took charge of the front of the restaurant. In 2011, they acquired complete ownership from Meyer, propelling Eleven Madison Park to global recognition as the world’s best restaurant, renowned for its luxurious lavender duck and other extravagant dishes. In 2019, Humm bought out Guidara, cementing his position as the sole proprietor.
Despite the challenges faced during the pandemic, with EMP shutting down during lockdown, the restaurant persevered and even transformed into a commissary partnered with ReThink Food, an organization founded by an EMP alumn. During this time, Humm served as a founding board member. In 2021, EMP reemerged as a plant-based fine dining establishment. Against all odds, it soared to new heights, receiving three Michelin stars the following year. Notable fans of EMP throughout the years include Madonna, Angelina Jolie, Questlove, and Trevor Noah.
Chef Daniel Humm emphasizes the various chapters that shaped EMP’s culinary identity, from its French Brasserie and European roots to its exploration of New York City cuisine and traditions. However, the final transition to a fully plant-based menu did not occur overnight. Humm explains, “We had always been pushing for plant-based cooking, but it was not conceivable before the pandemic. When the restaurant industry hit rock bottom, we felt like we had nothing left to lose, so we mustered the courage to embark on something new.”
Humm has also demonstrated that a plant-based menu can be economically viable. He notes, “Our menu has attracted a significant shift in our audience, giving us hope that a plant-based menu has a significant place in fine dining. Change is a gradual process that takes time.” Additionally, EMP strives to minimize waste through repurposing ingredients; produce trimmings find their way into cocktails. Furthermore, Humm’s hospitality company, Make It Nice, operates a pop-up bakery called Bake It Nice, which incorporates ingredients like sunflowers and carrots into their pastries. They have also partnered with ReThink Food since 2020 to provide meals to communities facing food insecurity.
Chef Daniel Humm imparts his philosophy with clarity, stating, “We are not against meat, but we prioritize the well-being of our planet. As individuals, the most powerful action we can take to make a positive impact is to consider what we put on our plates. Every meal matters; it is part of the change we seek. Perfection is unattainable, but we must all strive to inch our way toward a new reality. We must embrace the willingness to try new things as individuals and business owners, for it is only through change that progress can be made.”
Published by Gerhard Steidl, Humm’s new book captures his transition from a traditional fine-dining establishment to a vegan haven. Filled with expressive drawings and handwritten musings, it serves as a testament to the groundbreaking transformation that took place during the pandemic. Humm and Steidl are scheduled to discuss this radical conversion at the 92nd St. Y on December 13th, further illuminating the revolutionary journey embarked upon by Eleven Madison Park.
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