Tegan Passalacqua, a native of Napa Valley, breaks the mold of a typical winery owner in the region. Instead of meticulously maintained vine rows managed by an expensive vineyard management company, Passalacqua works with forgotten, ancient vine stumps. These unique vines grow in less glamorous areas like Lodi and Contra Costa County that have managed to avoid the encroachment of property developers.
Passalacqua is not only a winemaker but also a repository of knowledge about northern California viticulture. He serves as an unpaid grape broker, possessing an intimate understanding of the region’s history and geography. While some people know the secrets hidden in the region, Passalacqua knows the secrets of the deepest vine roots.
During my recent visit to the US, Passalacqua took me on a day trip in his massive pickup truck, showcasing his personal center of operations. Despite his larger-than-life physical presence, Passalacqua works on a minute scale. Most of the wines he produces under his Sandlands label are made in very small quantities from old, untended vines that are no longer very productive.
As we drove east out of Napa, Passalacqua warned me about the changes in Contra Costa since my last visit. The once characterful sandy wasteland dominated by vineyards is now soulless commuter country with constant traffic. San Francisco’s homelessness crisis has also touched the area, with lost souls wandering the streets. Passalacqua had to be cautious and lock his truck when showing me the remaining vineyards. He predicted that the agricultural past of the area would soon be forgotten and replaced by industrial developments.
Passalacqua has served as the director of winemaking at Turley Cellars for 20 years, specializing in old-vine wine. However, the availability of these vines is diminishing. Even a six-acre plot of Zinfandel, planted in 1896 and personally cared for by its 90-year-old owner, was recently replaced by housing. Passalacqua expressed his desire to purchase that vineyard but was unable to do so. The loss of these old vines is unfortunate as they often produce exceptional wines, even if they are not the popular varietals like Cabernet and Chardonnay. The threat of development looms over these ancient vine roots.
Passalacqua decided to buy a small ranch house on the outskirts of Lodi instead. He spends a few days a week there, overseeing operations for Sandlands and the nearby Kirschenmann vineyard, which he acquired in 2012. Fifteen of the vineyard’s 20 acres contain pre-phylloxera vines planted in 1915, mainly Zinfandel. While the first vintage of Sandlands was in 2009, Passalacqua sold all the wine in bulk because he felt it wasn’t up to par. He now regrets that decision.
Passalacqua contrasts the bleakness of Contra Costa with the quieter town of Lodi. Lodi played a significant role during Prohibition as a source of fresh grapes shipped by rail to home winemakers. However, it never developed a strong winery culture. Today, Lodi’s vineyards primarily supply bulk wine to larger wineries like Gallo. Despite the area’s rich heritage of ancient vines, there are few quality-focused producers in Lodi. Passalacqua believes that having California on the label is more marketable than having Lodi, even though the region has a sustainable protocol and unique terroir.
Passalacqua acknowledges that consumers are more willing to pay for wines made from young vines with recognizable grape varieties. However, there is a slow shift as younger wine drinkers seek novelty and authenticity. Obscure grape varieties like Trousseau, Carignane, and Malvasia are gaining a cult following in California. Passalacqua even describes his Trousseau as “hipster catnip”. He hopes that Lodi’s diversity of grape varieties will help it survive in the long run.
Despite the challenges, Passalacqua remains committed to preserving and producing wines that showcase California’s grape growing heritage. His passion for old vines and obscure varieties has led to unique and exceptional wines.
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