House of Ming, an opulent Chinese restaurant with global branches, was established in India in 1978 and has recently opened near Buckingham Palace in London. This location is incredibly convenient if you find yourself in need of a meal after a long day of observing people in tiaras waving from balconies. It is also a great choice if you have visited Westminster Abbey or if you are staying in one of the many fancy or not-so-fancy hotels around the St James’ Park area. Every year, millions of people visit this area, and catering to them is a profitable endeavor. This is why it makes perfect sense for House of Ming to open a branch in the Taj hotel.
House of Ming prides itself on its luxurious atmosphere, similar to Hutong at the Shard or the uniquely strange Tattu off Shaftesbury Avenue. However, House of Ming doesn’t focus on earnestly recreating authentic Cantonese and Sichuan cuisine. Instead, they offer a wide selection of Chinese dishes that have been influenced by Indian flavors, now available in London. The restaurant invites patrons to be amazed and to experience the fantasy, decadence, and splendor it has to offer.
The interior of House of Ming, designed by Atelier Wren, displays meticulous attention to detail. The space takes inspiration from the Ming Dynasty, featuring hand-painted ceilings, plush velvet booths, red lacquer accents, green hues, elegant brass pendant lights, and beautiful group dining rooms. However, as a solo diner on a quiet weekday lunchtime, I found myself seated in an unappealing corner facing the toilet door, the Epos till system, and the area where dirty plates were left. Although I ordered a bottle of sparkling water twice, I never received the first one, and the second was served in a formal manner, possibly to emphasize the restaurant’s luxurious atmosphere. However, the service soon dwindled, leaving me thirsty and comforted only by the “Summer Daytime” Spotify playlist curated for House of Ming by Gok Wan.
House of Ming’s menu boasts a variety of 20 to 30 dim sum and small plate options. Surprisingly, most items are priced between £12 and £15, regardless of their contents. Some examples include smashed cucumber in spicy peppercorn oil (£15), scallop with caviar (£15), edamame beans (£12), and duck bao (£12). I chose the crispy fried seafood rolls, which were coated in a floury tempura batter reminiscent of fried bread. The filling had an anonymous pink and grey texture that lacked flavor and seasoning, making the rolls disappointing. They were priced at £20.
With rooms starting at £400 per night at the Taj hotel, staying here for a week could amount to approximately £3,000. Therefore, paying £28 for a plate of perfectly satisfactory king prawns with string beans in XO sauce or £110 for a Peking duck may seem reasonable. However, I couldn’t help but feel disappointed by a bowl of thick, gelatinous mapo silken tofu in a wobbly chili bean sauce that seemed to lack freshness.
Another dish, Sichuan aubergine, arrived with the skin removed, the white flesh chopped, deep-fried, and swimming in a somewhat sweet and uninspiring pale-brown chili bean sauce resembling Bisto vegan gravy in both texture and shade.
At one point, a male waiter hurried to my table and began serving my food in large spoonfuls. Meanwhile, another solo diner nearby eagerly awaited his cocktail, which he had already ordered twice.
A passing server asked if I would like dessert but failed to provide me with a menu. When I inquired about a date pancake, she informed me that they only had ice cream. However, I wanted something other than ice cream, so I opted for tea instead. I requested a jasmine tea, and it arrived in a delicate and beautiful small pot, along with a tiny beaker. This was, by far, the highlight of the meal. When I paid the bill and left, I was surprised to discover that I had spent nearly £100, despite not having consumed any alcohol and hardly any water. Upon closer examination of the bill during my journey home on the tube, I realized that I had been charged £25 for the pot of tea, in addition to the service charge.
House of Ming, you may be tremendously popular in Delhi, where you have established a reputable name over the past four decades. However, I believe you may face challenges in London.
House of Ming St James’ Court, located at 54 Buckingham Gate, London SW1, can be reached at 020-7963 8330. The restaurant is open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch from 12:30 PM to 3:30 PM, and for dinner from 6:30 PM to 11:00 PM. The average cost per person for à la carte dining is approximately £60. Alternatively, you can opt for the three-course set lunch priced at £35 or the five-course set lunch and dinner priced at £80. Please note that all prices exclude beverages and service charge.
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