Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto is making its way to London’s prestigious V&A museum. Join Katie Wright as she explores the trailblazing journey of the iconic designer.
In the heart of Paris, a stylish mother is trying on loafers with her two children in tow. Across the room, two American women admire a black quilted handbag presented by an assistant wearing elegant white gloves. Upstairs, fashion enthusiasts browse through a collection of bubblegum pink tweed suits and dresses.
Did Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel ever imagine that her Couture House, established on Rue Cambon on New Year’s Day in 1910, would still thrive over a century later? Born in the Loire Valley in 1883, the talented designer learned to sew from nuns at the orphanage she was sent to at the age of 11. After working as a seamstress and cabaret singer, Coco began designing hats and opened hat shops, supported by her lovers, in other French towns. Eventually, she made her way to the capital and set up her own millinery boutique at 21 Rue Cambon.
Coco Chanel’s legendary apartment sits above her flagship boutique on Rue Cambon, and it has been preserved to this day. “It is an incredibly fascinating space,” says Oriole Cullen, the curator of modern textiles and fashion at London’s V&A Museum. “Within her rooms, you can see elements that are reflected in her designs, such as the big sandy suede sofa with the famous cross-stitch quilting cushions. You’ll also notice symbols like the number five, lion motifs, and lots of crystals, which have now become synonymous with the brand.”
Cullen had the opportunity to examine the apartment while curating Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, an exhibition that will be opening at the V&A on September 16, following its successful run in Paris, Melbourne, and Tokyo. The apartment is normally only accessible by special request, but just a short walk away lies one of Coco’s favorite spots – a must-visit for fashion enthusiasts in Paris.
Café Angelina, located on Rue de Rivoli, is still bustling with activity even in mid-August. Visitors eagerly line up outside the café for a chance to experience its unique ambiance (walk-ins only, so make sure to arrive before 10:30 am when the doors open at 11 am). “This was the place where writers, painters, and fashion people would gather, eat, and have meetings,” says assistant manager Kim Prestige. “It was a vibrant place back in those days.” Sitting at Coco’s favorite table in the light-filled tearoom, visitors can enjoy classic French delicacies like the Mont-Blanc, a heavenly combination of whipped cream, chestnut cream, and meringue.
Known for her liberal storytelling (particularly about her own childhood), Coco Chanel was undeniably a controversial figure. On one hand, she revolutionized women’s clothing, freeing them from the constraints of corsets and heavy gowns. On the other hand, she collaborated with the Nazis during World War II and held openly antisemitic and homophobic views. “Chanel primarily designed for herself,” explains Cullen. “She introduced fabrics like jersey into high fashion, which was a practical choice more commonly seen in menswear at the time she started.”
To get a deeper understanding of Chanel’s legacy, visitors can explore the Palais Galliera museum, where the Fashion Manifesto exhibition made its debut in 2020. The exhibition, Fashion On The Move, traces the history of women’s sportswear from the 1830s to the present day. Among the exhibits are two Chanel designs: a black taffeta evening gown and a surf-inspired electric blue sequined blazer worn with cycling shorts on the spring/summer 1991 catwalk – both creations of Karl Lagerfeld, another iconic but controversial fashion figure.
As Paris prepares to host the 2024 Summer Olympics, the city will undoubtedly be in the spotlight, with millions of tourists expected to visit. Just over two hours away on the Eurostar from St Pancras International, Paris is the perfect destination for a long weekend getaway, whether you have Olympic tickets or not. Katie Wright spends four nights at the Monsieur Georges Hotel and Spa, a hidden gem tucked away on a quiet cobblestone street near the Champs Elysée. The Haussmann-style building combines classic Parisian elegance with modern luxury, offering guests a comfortable and luxurious experience.
For those seeking a taste of Coco Chanel’s glamorous lifestyle, a visit to the Ritz Paris is a must. While the Coco Chanel suite might not be within everyone’s budget at €17,400 per night, the hotel’s famous afternoon tea offers a more affordable taste of luxury. For €67 per person, guests can indulge in a selection of exquisite cakes, tartlets, biscuits, and madeleines, accompanied by their choice of hot beverage.
Sitting in the opulent Salon Proust, surrounded by book-lined walls, visitors can immerse themselves in the timeless elegance that Coco Chanel enjoyed for so many years. From fashion to food, handbags to hotels, the legendary designer’s impeccable taste continues to inspire and captivate.
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