In the charming city of Stockholm, the elegant steamboat S/S Stockholm embarks on a journey from Boulevard Strandvägen. The buildings along the boulevard, adorned with art nouveau designs that resemble cake icing, exude a subtle beauty. Our ultimate destination is Vaxholm, an island among the 30,000 islands, skerries, and islets that make up Stockholm’s archipelago. The city itself sprawls across 14 islands, each with its unique charm, like pieces of a 3D puzzle floating in a sea of waterways.
As S/S Stockholm sets off, the picturesque island of Djurgården appears on the horizon. Towering above the treetops, I catch sight of the masts of my favorite museum, the Vasamuseet. This museum is the resting place of a 17th-century warship, and it always leaves me in awe. As we sail by, I hear the screams of delight coming from Gröna Lund amusement park. The contrast between the thrilling sounds and the tranquility of the surrounding forests, parks, and flower gardens with their intertwining biking routes and walking paths is captivating. This close proximity to nature and water naturally creates a harmonious work-life balance and compels me to be fully present in the moment.
The air fills with the aroma of fish as the attendants prepare the ship’s extensive brunch smörgåsbord, showcasing traditional Swedish delicacies such as pickled herring (sill), cured salmon (gravadlax), and meatballs (köttbullar). The simplicity and unpretentiousness of Swedish gastronomy are evident in these flavorful dishes.
As we sail past more islands, I catch glimpses of Skeppsholmen, surrounded by fishing trawlers. We pass by the vibrant and eclectic neighborhood of Södermalm, also known as “Söder,” which was once a 17th-century slum but has now been transformed into a haven of vintage stores and vegan cafes. Fjäderholmarna, another island on our route, comes alive as soon as the sun’s rays touch the land, disregarding the temperature.
Finally, we arrive at Vaxholm, and during this three-hour journey, I have experienced everything I adore about living in Stockholm for the past 13 years. Lola Akinmade Åkerström
Italy
In Italy, there are different phases of my love affair with coffee. There were the cappuccino years, followed by the espresso years. Then came the years of indulging in brioche, risino, treccina, or sometimes even bignè. Some years, I would have chocolate on my foam, while other years I would forgo it. Amidst the chaos of my early days in Italy, struggling to learn the language, obtain permits and paperwork, find work, and get paid, the daily ritual of morning coffee became an oasis of pleasure amidst the bureaucracy and challenges.
I have vivid memories of Pasticceria Maggia in Montorio Veronese, a small village near Verona. The contrast between the frenetic and intense atmosphere outside and the serene, polished interior filled with delectable pastries and efficient service was striking. How do Italians manage to prepare coffee faster, stronger, and better than anywhere else while maintaining an air of effortless elegance? Perhaps it’s their artful milk jug movements to create a heart-shaped design on the foam or their thoughtful gesture of placing a small glass of mineral water beside it. Friendliness and flair are evident in every cup, with newspapers readily available for customers to peruse.
Many of my Italian language skills were acquired in cafes, poring over the pages of Arena di Verona, trying to comprehend the intricacies of Italian politics. It was 1981, a year marked by the Red Brigades’ kidnapping of an American general and roadblocks on the streets. However, the carabiniere standing beside me at the bar with his machine gun always exuded warmth and kindness. It was during this time that I fell in love with Italy. And in the 40 years since, apart from the challenging period of the Covid lockdown, Italy’s coffee culture has remained a constant source of solace and joy in my life.
“I have measured out my life with coffee spoons,” famously lamented Alfred J Prufrock. In Italy, however, it is a triumphant declaration. Tim Parks
Lithuania
Nearly 30 years ago, I set foot in Lithuania for the first time. It was my first visit to my wife Dalia’s hometown, Vilnius. Having already explored other Eastern European capitals, Vilnius felt distinct.
The city boasted colossal, Soviet-era buildings and the weightiness of brutalist architecture in modern areas. But it was when I visited the small apartment where Dalia grew up, still occupied by her parents, that I saw her in a new light. To truly know a person, one must understand their roots.
We strolled through the streets of Vilnius’ old town, enveloped in freezing temperatures of -30°C, wrapped in coats crafted by Dalia’s uncle from old blankets. We spent our time savoring scrumptious meals, engaging in animated conversations, and navigating the language barrier with determination. It was during this trip that I felt a sense of home, connection, and belonging that continues to resonate with me today. In contrast to that first visit all those years ago, Vilnius now boasts exceptional restaurants. Amandus, in particular, stands out, with its Lithuanian chef trained in Scandinavia, bringing a modern twist to traditional cuisine.
The people of Lithuania are beautiful, hardworking, and possess a unique sense of humor. They are both generous and creative. It is an honor to be a citizen of this country and to consider it my “second” home. Dexter Fletcher
Ireland
Whenever my love for Ireland falters due to the rain, dysfunction, or high cost of living, there is one place that single-handedly restores my affection to its fullest. And that place is none other than the Forty Foot, a bathing spot in south Dublin.
It is at this spot that I release my grip on the ladder, plunge into the Irish Sea, and hear my inner voice shouting, “NO!” Though I make no audible sound, the cold water takes my breath away momentarily. After a minute or two, the initial shock subsides, and I find myself swimming around the rocks, reaffirming why living in Ireland makes perfect sense.
Partly, it is the well-documented psychological benefits of sea-swimming. But it is also the breathtaking setting. The bay unfolds before me, showcasing the majestic Killiney and Dalkey hills, the iconic Aviva stadium, the striking Poolbeg chimneys, the bustling port, and the Howth peninsula. Beyond the watery horizon lies Wales.
Occasionally, a playful seal emerges from the depths, adding to the vibrant scene. The human presence is equally fascinating. There are the seasoned swimmers, dubbed the “hardies,” who found solace in this spot long before it became trendy. Then, there is the “dry-robe brigade,” equipped with flasks and fleece-lined hooded gear. And there are the first-timers, who let out whoops of excitement. The accents range from posh to working-class, Irish to foreign, with everyone exchanging valuable information.
Watching over us all is the Martello tower, a beacon that marks the beginning of James Joyce’s Ulysses. Its notable description of what bathers can expect, “The snotgreen sea. The scrotum-tightening sea,” feels like a hidden invitation to take the plunge. Rory Carroll
Denmark
When I was initially shown a flat in Copenhagen by an estate agent, she made a point of emphasizing the appeal of the harbor. She declared, “In the summer, us Danes can’t resist the water.” At the time, I couldn’t fully comprehend its allure. The harbor appeared as a murky expanse of greenish water overlooked by numerous apartment buildings. It seemed far from an enchanting infinity pool.
However, after residing in Denmark for six years, my perspective has undergone a significant shift. I have embraced the Danish way of life and developed a deep fondness for their swimming culture. It is not merely a passing summer trend or a means to cool off on a hot day; swimming has become an integral part of life in this sea-loving nation. If there’s one essential item to pack when visiting Denmark, it’s a swimsuit.
Long before the rise of Wim Hof and the popularity of wild swimming, Danes were already immersing themselves in the water year-round. It’s an exhilarating experience to dive into the black waters on a winter morning, wearing nothing more than a bobble hat, and feel a surge of illicit thrill. In contrast, swimming in the summer brings sheer joy under the radiant sun. I often choose to meet friends for a swim instead of a coffee, and playdates with the kids often involve sitting by the harbor basins, cherishing every moment spent near the water.
Denmark has so much to offer, from its charming bakeries and vibrant cycling culture to the concept of hygge and its trust-based society. However, nothing tops their deep-rooted love for swimming. Laura Hall
Croatia
When I first visited Croatia as an 11-year-old (back when it was still part of Yugoslavia), I had a notorious reputation as a picky eater. Thankfully, I have long outgrown that phase, as denying myself the pleasure of savoring delightful foods is now inconceivable. And if there’s one place where cuisine truly embodies the heart and soul of a country, it’s Croatia.
Over the years, I have witnessed Croatia’s transformation into a more upscale destination, earning Michelin stars along the way. I have had countless unforgettable meals in various establishments, each leaving an indelible mark on my culinary journey.
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