Just a couple of months ago, Eli Russell Linnetz relocated to a house built by Dennis Hopper in the mid-1980s. After years of searching, he finally found the perfect studio in Venice Beach. This unique space, with its metal exterior and wave-like curved roof, was the ideal match for the 32-year-old multi-talented individual. On a video call, Mr. Linnetz proudly showed off the studio, highlighting original features like an angular glass bathtub and “the room where Dennis Hopper died.” The grandeur of the property was difficult to capture on screen, and as he walked towards the small white house where he currently resides, Mr. Linnetz stumbled upon blooming gardenias in the yard.
One of Mr. Linnetz’s initial renovation decisions was to rip up the studio’s floors and replace them with plywood from the original construction period. This level of meticulous attention to detail is characteristic of his work. He has a habit of fixating on small elements in order to tell a compelling story. In fact, before his debut runway show in collaboration with Dior last year, he explained the importance of every aspect of a garment being in perfect harmony. From zippers to buttons to beads, he believes that the way these elements are sewn on can make or break the narrative being conveyed.
If Mr. Linnetz comes across as a filmmaker consumed with authenticity and era-specific props, it’s because he is one. In addition to being a fashion designer, he is a director, screenwriter, photographer, stage designer, and music producer. Although he only began delving into the fashion industry in 2018, it quickly developed into a complete brand called ERL. This brand, supported by Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market, was awarded the prestigious Karl Lagerfeld Prize for young designers last year. ERL is now available in over 220 stores.
For his upcoming project, Mr. Linnetz is set to be a guest designer at the Pitti Uomo men’s wear fair, a highly exclusive platform in the fashion world. This title has been held by esteemed designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and Dries Van Noten in the past. Scheduled for June 15 in Florence, Italy, Mr. Linnetz’s runway show will be an eagerly anticipated event. However, if he had a choice, he would prefer to be working on his screenplay from the comfort of his home in Venice.
When asked about his connection and passion for fashion, Mr. Linnetz made an interesting confession. Apart from childhood sketches of dresses and creating a prom dress for a friend, he doesn’t feel a strong affinity for the industry. Instead, he sees fashion as a medium that allows him to express the world around him. His style is a fusion of surfer chic and Americana influences, with vintage-inspired graphic tees, bold skate shoes, patchwork flared jeans, vibrant knits, and a range of hoodies.
Despite claiming to have little control over his involvement in fashion, Mr. Linnetz maintains a jovial attitude. He often jokes about feeling like a “Manchurian Candidate,” compelled to design every day without question. His infectious grin adds an element of lightheartedness, masking any frustration or exhaustion he may experience.
Behind the scenes, Mr. Linnetz’s collaboration with Ronnie Cooke Newhouse, the influential creative director, was initially met with skepticism. Many individuals from Los Angeles who venture into the fashion world are seen as lacking expertise in their respective fields. However, Mr. Linnetz proved to be an exception. With previous accomplishments like directing a Kanye West video, producing music, and working with playwright David Mamet, he caught Ms. Newhouse’s attention. She admired his talent and decided to work with him.
Mr. Linnetz’s journey began as a child actor in Los Angeles, appearing in Disney productions. However, after his bar mitzvah, he pivoted away from acting and focused on his Jewish identity. In his teenage years, he encountered David Mamet at his temple, and the playwright invited him to the set of his TV show. That day, there was a costume contest, and Mr. Linnetz impressed Mr. Mamet with a homemade judge’s robe and wig. This encounter led to more opportunities, including assisting Mr. Mamet in various capacities and even printing out his emails.
While studying at the University of Southern California, Mr. Linnetz pursued screenwriting, opera, and joined a fraternity. He explored his interests in hypermasculine activities like wrestling during high school. After graduation, his filmmaking ambitions took a backseat as he transitioned to 3-D animation. It was during this time that a friend introduced his art to Kanye West, resulting in a collaboration on the cover art for “The Life of Pablo.”
Working with Kanye and Kim Kardashian opened Mr. Linnetz’s eyes to the impact that art and photography can have on culture. He desired to establish his own path and began collaborating with other performers, such as Lady Gaga. His unique talent and ambition caught the attention of Adrian Joffe, the president of Comme des Garçons. Mr. Joffe recognized Mr. Linnetz’s brilliance and offered him his own label under Dover Street Market Paris’s brand development program. This led to the creation of ERL and the subsequent success of the brand.
To sum it up, Mr. Linnetz’s journey has been anything but conventional. From his diverse range of talents to his unexpected foray into the fashion industry, he has overcome skepticism and established himself as a force to be reckoned with. As he continues to navigate the fashion world, he maintains his sense of humor and a deep passion for storytelling. Whether working on a screenplay or designing garments, Mr. Linnetz’s dedication to his craft shines through, leaving an indelible mark on the industry.
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