This article is part of a new guide to Milan from FT Globetrotter.
Milan and Coffee: A Brief History
Milan has a rich history with coffee. The locals were first introduced to it in the 1600s through the city’s trade with Venice, which brought in coffee beans from various regions, including Ethiopia, the Middle East, and the Ottoman Empire. In those times, the general public would sip their coffee from pushcarts on the streets, a practice known as caffè del ginoeucc. These early versions of cafes were exclusive to intellectuals and the upper class.
Fast forward to today, and Milan’s love for coffee remains unchanged. It is still seen as a social occasion and a ritual. Italians, in general, have a deep affection for coffee. According to a 2016 report, 97% of the population has at least one cup of coffee per day, with an average intake of four to five espressos per person. The first espresso is usually enjoyed at home in the morning, followed by a mid-morning coffee at a cafe. After lunch, it is almost mandatory to have another cup of coffee, as one can witness the long queues forming outside cafes in Milan’s city center. A final espresso is typically enjoyed in the afternoon, with some coffee enthusiasts having a last cup after dinner.
Italian Coffee Culture
It is common for most people in Italy to add sugar to their espresso. Many women prefer to have their coffee macchiato, which means adding a small amount of milk, while men generally prefer their espresso without any additions. It’s also a cultural norm to consume coffee while standing at the counter. In Italian coffee-drinking etiquette, it is considered inappropriate to lick the teaspoon after stirring.
Different Occasions, Different Styles
Morning and afternoon coffees are slightly different when it comes to socializing. These occasions are not as fast-paced, and if seating is available, it is often welcomed by customers who want to enjoy a croissant and cappuccino in the morning or pasticcini (small pastries) with their coffee in the afternoon. It’s important to note that an Italian would never order a cappuccino after noon, especially not with a meal.
As a Coffee Snob’s Recommendations
As someone who is passionate about coffee, I drink more than four espressos a day, without sugar or milk. I’ve always been a coffee snob and have never bought coffee from global coffee chains or Nespresso. I own multiple Moka pots, and I always bring coffee from Italy wherever I live in the world. The places I recommend below are not the ones that sell cheap filtered coffee or are popular with tourists who prefer sweetened espresso shots. These are the places where I, as a coffee enthusiast, keep going back, and where I take my friends and visitors. Please note that this list is not exhaustive and not based on any specific criteria.
Torrefazione Ernani
Formerly known as Caffè Ambrosiano, Torrefazione Ernani has been a fixture in Milan’s coffee scene since 1909. This historic coffee shop has maintained its traditional Milanese ambiance, with its wooden counter and old-school decor. While they no longer roast coffee on-site due to regulatory changes, they receive fresh beans every Tuesday and Friday from their factory in Desio, a town near Milan. One of their coffees, Blue Diamond, made from high-quality arabica beans, was awarded a gold medal by the International Institute of Coffee Tasters. The baristas at Torrefazione Ernani rotate the coffee bean mix in their machines, offering a range of aromatic arabica coffees and strong robusta blends. They also serve fluffy croissants for breakfast and have a selection of dried fruits, candies, and nuts that pair well with their coffees.
Pavé
Pavé opened its doors in 2012 and quickly became a favorite among the younger crowd. It has expanded its business to include a craft-beer bar, another coffee shop, and two gelaterias in the city. On weekdays, you’ll find the cafe filled with young, international, and diverse customers. While not many stay for a long time, very few have their coffee and pastries at the counter. The manager, Luca Robotti, prefers to welcome “one more person than a laptop.” While there isn’t a strict no-laptop policy, it is mentioned in the menu, encouraging customers not to occupy tables for extended periods. Despite the lively atmosphere, Pavé offers a relaxed and energetic ambiance. They serve a variety of coffee options, including cappuccinos, macchiatos, filtered coffees, and espressos. Their ground coffee, Moka Republic, is made from 100% arabica beans. The bakery at Pavé is a must-try, especially their daily-made croissants. They also offer a range of cakes, with their Tonka cake being a popular choice.
Marchesi 1824
Marchesi 1824 is the original location of this iconic Milanese coffee shop. There are now two more branches in the city center and one in Mayfair, London. Known for its coffee, cakes, and panettone (a traditional Italian sweet bread), Marchesi 1824 is always bustling with customers. It is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Please note that this cafe is always very busy, so expect a wait.
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