Ochsenschwanzsuppe: A Hug in a Bowl

There’s a special kind of magic that happens when humble ingredients are coaxed into something truly spectacular. For me, Ochsenschwanzsuppe, or oxtail soup, is one such culinary alchemy. I recall a blustery autumn evening years ago, seeking refuge from the wind in a small, family-run restaurant tucked away in a Bavarian village. The aroma that wafted from the kitchen was unlike anything I had ever experienced – rich, deep, and incredibly comforting. When the steaming bowl of ochsenschwanzsuppe arrived, the broth was a burnished amber, glistening with savory promise, and the tender, fall-off-the-bone oxtail was a testament to slow, patient cooking. It wasn’t just a meal; it was a warm embrace, a culinary hug that has stayed with me ever since.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 20 minutes
• Cook Time: 5 hours 15 minutes
• Total Time: 5 hours 35 minutes
• Servings: 6
• Yield: Approximately 8 cups
• Dietary Type: Not specified (primarily meat-based)

Ingredients

• 2 lbs oxtails, disjointed (or 2 veal tails)
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 8 cups water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 4 peppercorns
• 1/4 cup parsley, chopped
• 1/2 cup carrot, diced
• 1 cup celery, diced
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/2 cup tomatoes, drained
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed
• 1 tablespoon unbleached flour
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1/4 cup Madeira wine

Equipment Needed

• A large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot (at least 4 quarts)
• A fine-mesh sieve or strainer
• A blender
• A large frying pan
• Measuring cups and spoons
• Sharp knife and cutting board

Instructions

1. Begin by preparing the base of this magnificent soup. In your 4-quart Dutch oven or a comparably sized heavy-bottomed pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add the disjointed oxtails and the sliced onion. Brown the oxtails and onion thoroughly on all sides for several minutes, aiming for a rich, caramelized color. This step is crucial for developing the deep, complex flavor of the soup.

2. Once the oxtails and onions have achieved a beautiful sear, carefully pour in the 8 cups of water. Add the 1 teaspoon of salt and the 4 peppercorns. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, then simmer uncovered for approximately 2 hours. This initial long simmer allows the oxtails to begin rendering their rich gelatin and flavor into the liquid.

3. After the initial uncovered simmer, cover the Dutch oven. Continue to simmer the soup, now covered, for an additional 3 additional hours. This extended, slow cooking period is what transforms tough oxtails into incredibly tender, succulent pieces of meat and extracts the maximum flavor from the bones.

4. With the oxtails now becoming wonderfully tender, it’s time to introduce more aromatics and vegetables. Add the 1/4 cup of chopped parsley, the 1/2 cup of diced carrot, the 1 cup of diced celery, the 1 bay leaf, the 1/2 cup of drained tomatoes, and the 1 teaspoon of crushed dried thyme to the pot.

5. Continue simmering the soup, now with the added vegetables and herbs, for 30 minutes longer. This final simmer allows the vegetables to become tender and their flavors to meld beautifully with the rich broth.

6. Once the vegetables are tender and the soup has developed its full aroma, carefully strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl or container. Discard the bones and any tough solids from the straining process. Place the strained stock in the refrigerator for at least an hour, or until thoroughly chilled. This chilling step makes it much easier to remove the solidified fat from the surface of the stock.

7. While the stock is chilling, prepare the meat and vegetable component. Once the oxtails have cooled slightly after straining, carefully puree the edible meat and vegetables in a blender until you have a somewhat smooth, but still textured, mixture. This pureed mixture will add body and depth to the finished soup. Reserve this puree.

8. When the stock is chilled and the fat has solidified on top, remove the fat from the surface of the stock. Reheat the defatted stock in a clean pot or back in the Dutch oven.

9. Now, to create a velvety liaison for the soup, prepare a roux. In a large frying pan, brown the 1 tablespoon of unbleached flour over high heat, stirring constantly. This toasting of the flour deepens its nutty flavor and removes any raw flour taste. Cool slightly after browning.

10. To the browned flour in the frying pan, add the 1 tablespoon of butter. Blend them together until a smooth paste forms.

11. Gradually add the reheated stock to the flour and butter mixture in the frying pan, whisking continuously to ensure a smooth, lump-free consistency. Then, add the reserved pureed meat and vegetables to the frying pan. Stir everything together to combine.

12. Correct the seasoning to your taste. This is your opportunity to ensure the soup is perfectly balanced in terms of saltiness and flavor. Just before serving, stir in the 1/4 cup of Madeira wine. The Madeira adds a subtle sweetness and a refined complexity that truly elevates the soup. Heat gently until the soup is warmed through, but do not boil after adding the Madeira.

Expert Tips & Tricks

To achieve the most flavorful oxtail soup, don’t skimp on the initial browning of the oxtails and onions. This Maillard reaction is the foundation of deep flavor. If you find your oxtails aren’t falling off the bone after the initial simmering, a little more time on low heat can work wonders. Chilling the stock is a non-negotiable step for achieving a clean, fat-free broth, which allows the true oxtail flavor to shine. For a smoother texture, you can process the reserved meat and vegetables for longer, but I personally enjoy a little texture. The Madeira wine adds an irreplaceable depth; if you absolutely cannot find it, a dry sherry could be a distant substitute, but Madeira is truly the star here.

Serving & Storage Suggestions

Serve this rich Ochsenschwanzsuppe piping hot in deep bowls. A sprinkle of fresh chopped parsley or chives makes a beautiful garnish. It’s traditionally enjoyed with crusty bread for soaking up every last drop of the delicious broth. Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. To reheat, gently warm the soup on the stovetop over low heat, stirring occasionally. Avoid boiling once the Madeira has been added. If the soup has solidified, a little extra stock or water can be added during reheating to achieve the desired consistency.

Nutritional Information

Nutrient	Amount per Serving	% Daily Value
Calories	87.9 kcal	N/A
Calories from Fat	N/A	59 g
Total Fat	6.6 g	10%
Saturated Fat	1.8 g	9%
Cholesterol	5.1 mg	1%
Sodium	430.7 mg	17%
Total Carbohydrate	5.4 g	1%
Dietary Fiber	1.2 g	4%
Sugars	2 g	8%
Protein	0.8 g	1%

Note: Nutritional information is an estimate and may vary based on specific ingredients and preparation methods.

Variations & Substitutions

While this recipe is a classic, feel free to explore. For a slightly heartier soup, consider adding other root vegetables like parsnips or a small diced potato during the final 30-minute simmer. If you prefer a more pronounced tomato flavor, a tablespoon of tomato paste could be browned with the flour and butter. For those seeking a richer umami depth, a small piece of dried shiitake mushroom simmered with the oxtails could be an interesting addition, though it would alter the traditional flavor profile.

FAQs

Q: Can I use beef broth instead of water for a more intense flavor?
A: While water is traditional for allowing the oxtails to impart their own flavor, a good quality beef broth could be used, but be mindful of its salt content.

Q: How can I thicken the soup if it’s too thin?
A: The roux made with flour and butter is designed to thicken the soup. If it’s still too thin for your liking, you can whisk a tablespoon of cornstarch with a little cold water and stir it into the simmering soup, cooking until thickened.

Q: Is it necessary to refrigerate the stock overnight?
A: Refrigerating the stock overnight makes it significantly easier to remove the solidified fat, resulting in a cleaner, purer broth. However, if you’re short on time, chilling it in the freezer for an hour or two until partially set will also help.

Q: What kind of oxtails are best?
A: Beef oxtails are most commonly used and provide the deepest flavor and gelatin. Veal tails can be used as an alternative, offering a slightly milder flavor.

Q: Can I make this soup ahead of time?
A: Yes, the soup can be made a day or two in advance. The flavors often meld and improve overnight. Simply reheat gently on the stovetop.

Final Thoughts

Ochsenschwanzsuppe is a labor of love, a testament to the beauty of slow cooking and the profound satisfaction that comes from creating something truly nourishing. It’s the kind of dish that warms you from the inside out, perfect for a chilly evening or whenever you need a comforting embrace. Don’t be intimidated by the cooking time; the process itself is meditative, and the reward is an unforgettable culinary experience. Gather your ingredients, embrace the patience, and prepare to be delighted by this classic of German comfort food. I encourage you to share your experiences and perhaps even your own cherished memories of this remarkable soup.