This article is part of a new guide to Vancouver from FT Globetrotter.
Walking into Landmark Hotpot, you can immediately appreciate the cozy and worn atmosphere. The china is slightly scuffed, the tables have remained unchanged since the 1980s, and the faux-marble paintwork could use a touch-up. The bustling dining room is filled with excited customers, and the staff, dressed in formal uniforms, provide old-fashioned service with flourishes. It’s like stepping into a scene from a Wes Anderson film. But behind its charming quirkiness, Landmark Hotpot exudes confidence earned through years of delivering top-notch Cantonese cuisine made with locally-sourced ingredients. The servers offer gentle guidance, and each dish is served in a progression to allow for proper enjoyment. Plates are changed throughout the meal, staying true to the traditional Hong Kong hotel-style service that thrives in Vancouver.
As former outposts of the British empire, Vancouver and Hong Kong have always shared a special connection across the Pacific Ocean. When my family immigrated to Canada in the 1960s, Vancouver became our home due to its close ties with Cantonese food traditions. The city’s location on the fertile Fraser River delta, which mirrors Guangzhou’s Pearl River delta, allows for the use of fresh, local ingredients. Growing up, our meals often featured Pacific rock cod caught by my late father or stir-fried watercress foraged from nearby streams. During summer camping trips, we would cook smoky congee over a fire, enhanced with local clams.
At 80 years old, Chef David Li has been leading Landmark Hotpot for nearly half a century. Local clams and British Columbia spot prawns are beloved ingredients among Vancouver’s Cantonese chefs. The wave of emigration from Hong Kong to Vancouver following the 1997 handover brought with it the expertise and sophisticated palates necessary for upscale Hong Kong cuisine. This influx of culinary talent ushered in a golden age of Cantonese dining in Vancouver, resulting in a unique sub-genre of local Cantonese food that celebrates seasonal ingredients such as British Columbia spot prawns, Asian poultry breeds from nearby farms, and live fish.
However, in recent years, the flow of kitchen talent from Hong Kong has declined significantly. Most of Vancouver’s Cantonese restaurants now have head chefs who are in their 60s and 70s. The rigorous prep work and technique required for formal Hong Kong cooking make it difficult for a new generation to step up and take on intense apprenticeships. Despite this, Cantonese cooking in Vancouver continues to impress. Below are some of the top restaurants to experience this local genre, known for their clarity, refinement, and simplicity, all of which contribute to their unique character and atmosphere.
Chef’s Choice Chinese Cuisine
- Good for: Exploring long-forgotten classic Hong Kong dishes
- Not so good for: Those looking for bold and intense flavors
- FYI: Splurge on the king crab, especially the crab shell stuffed with Portuguese-style curried rice
- Opening times: Monday–Friday, 10:30am–3pm and 5pm–9:30pm; Saturday–Sunday, 10am–3pm and 5pm–9:30pm
- Website: https://www.ccchinesecuisine.com/
- Directions: https://goo.gl/maps/bVJNtuuKpQHgLLL2A
Chef’s Choice Chinese Cuisine gives off a members’ club vibe, but it has become a symbol of good taste among Vancouver’s food enthusiasts. The entrance may be understated, with muted colors and closed blinds, but the restaurant compensates by choosing bright lights to create an atmosphere that is far from gloomy, which Hong Kong diners dislike. Despite the lack of natural light, Chef Tommy Pang’s dishes more than make up for it with their incredible flavors. A regular at Chef’s Choice, Chef Pang has been working in restaurants since he was 13, honing his skills through observation and hands-on cooking in high-end restaurants in Hong Kong and Vancouver. In his 70s now, he possesses an encyclopedic knowledge of Cantonese cuisine.
One of Pang’s signature dishes is the roasted Gold Coin chicken, a succulent composition of fatty pork belly slices sandwiching chicken livers, resembling Chinese coins. The menu also offers delectable dim sum, including pork and seafood dumplings with thin, delicate wrappers. Pang’s fried sticky rice chicken, featuring a whole chicken deboned and layered with rice, dried scallops, shiitake mushrooms, and Chinese sausage, is a staple at nearly every table.
Dynasty Seafood Restaurant
- Good for: Indulging in big, showy dishes that will impress
- Not so good for: Those seeking a quiet, intimate dining experience
- FYI: If you have serious food allergies, notify the restaurant in advance for accommodations
- Opening times: Daily, 10am–3pm and 5pm–10pm
- Website: https://www.dynasty-restaurant.ca/
- Directions: https://goo.gl/maps/eY1jTdQWhkpEiNnE6
Dynasty Seafood Restaurant specializes in Hong Kong banquet-style dishes prepared with vibrant enthusiasm by Executive Chef Cao Can Hui, a “young buck” in Vancouver’s Chinese cooking scene at 54 years old. While meat and seafood are abundant on the menu, Dynasty truly shines with its vegetarian dishes. The Napa cabbage stuffed with Buddha’s Feast, a mix of shiitake mushrooms, bean curd, and other veggies, is a symbol of prosperity. Steamed Chinese eggplant with preserved vegetables and a sweet soy sauce is a vegetarian twist on the classic Cantonese steam cod. The sautéed Buddha’s Feast with shiitake mushrooms, wood ear fungus, and cabbage offers a burst of wok hei flavors.
One of Dynasty’s most popular dishes, and perhaps one of the most Instagrammed Chinese dishes in Vancouver, is the spicy typhoon crab. Fried Dungeness crab, adorned with spicy garlic chips, crispy breadcrumbs, and fresh chopped chilies, is served atop a mound of sticky rice. Dynasty also offers delightful dim sum, including baked pork pies and steamed mushroom dumplings.
Golden Paramount
- Good for: Savoring expertly crafted dim sum and simple yet magical dishes (don’t miss the beef gai lan)
- Not so good for: Those who prioritize restaurant decor
- FYI: Request a table in the second room for a more comfortable dining experience
- Opening times: Daily, 10am–3pm and 5pm–10pm
- Website: https://www.goldenparamount.com/
- Directions: https://goo.gl/maps/5fKMWEZj93Lw3nPG7
Golden Paramount is the place to go for meticulously crafted dim sum and dishes that transform simple ingredients into culinary magic. The restaurant may not prioritize its decor, but the food more than makes up for it. Don’t miss the beef gai lan, a standout dish. For a truly enjoyable dining experience, request a table in the second room behind the host’s podium. The dining room pulses with vibrant energy, epitomizing the charm of Vancouver’s diverse food scene. The restaurant’s service team effortlessly caters to both Chinese and non-Chinese customers, creating an inclusive and welcoming environment. Golden Paramount represents the beautiful fusion of cultures in Vancouver, as people from all walks of life come together to enjoy delicious food.
Denial of responsibility! Vigour Times is an automatic aggregator of Global media. In each content, the hyperlink to the primary source is specified. All trademarks belong to their rightful owners, and all materials to their authors. For any complaint, please reach us at – [email protected]. We will take necessary action within 24 hours.
