Stone, Vine & Sun: A Unique Discovery in the Languedoc
Stone, Vine & Sun is a dedicated and diligent wine merchant based in Hampshire. With a strong focus on the Languedoc region, known for producing exceptional wines at great value, they have come across a remarkable white wine made from the vibrant Clairette grape. Despite a slight increase in price from £10.95 to £11.50, this wine remains an excellent steal.
Intrigued by its quality and value, Stone, Vine & Sun reached out to the producer, L’Estabel, located in the village of Cabrières. As a cooperative, L’Estabel produces wine on behalf of its grower-members who lack the expertise, resources, or equipment to do so themselves. Luc Flache, the director and winemaker of L’Estabel, was highly responsive and invited Stone, Vine & Sun for a visit in late July.
The decision was further reinforced when Stone, Vine & Sun learned that L’Estabel had been named the 2023 vigneron de l’année by France’s prestigious wine guide, Le Guide Hachette des Vins. This accolade was particularly noteworthy as it was the first time a cooperative had received such an honor. During the visit, Stone, Vine & Sun had the opportunity to taste a range of L’Estabel’s wines, including a cleverly named no-added-sulphites red called “On Souf(f)re Pas,” which left a lasting impression.
However, Stone, Vine & Sun’s enthusiasm quickly faded when they had the chance to see L’Estabel’s winery. Dark and outdated, the winery seemed frozen in time since its construction in 1937. It was reminiscent of the Bulgarian wineries Stone, Vine & Sun had encountered in the 1980s, just before EU funds revitalized them. It became evident that neither Stone, Vine & Sun’s buying team nor the editor of the Guide Hachette had visited L’Estabel, confirming Stone, Vine & Sun’s suspicions.
Stone, Vine & Sun, being familiar with wine cooperatives in the Languedoc region, acknowledges that many of them produce ordinary wines that are no longer in demand. The French government even plans to distill €200 million worth of surplus wine into industrial alcohol. However, Flache has managed to create truly exceptional wines during his seven-year tenure at L’Estabel. He has also significantly increased the percentage of organic wine produced, from 1% to an impressive 30%. It seems that the secret to L’Estabel’s success lies within its soil.
Cabrières, located west of Montpellier and surrounded by mountains, possesses a unique geological composition. It contains layers of limestone and schist, similar to its neighboring regions of Faugères and St-Chinian. However, the arrangement of these layers is distinct in Cabrières. With around 300 hectares of vineyards, the area has captured the attention of renowned winemakers like Gérard Bertrand, known for producing a rosé called Clos du Temple, priced at over £100 a bottle. Even Tony Laithwaite, a prominent direct-to-consumer wine retailer, has shown interest in Cabrières, as L’Estabel already supplies his company with white and rosé wines under the label Le Roi Soleil. According to local lore, Cabrières wine was highly favored by the Sun King, Louis XIV.
Ten days later, Stone, Vine & Sun visited Santadi, a wine cooperative in southern Sardinia. The contrast between Santadi and L’Estabel was striking. Santadi, producing about twice the amount of wine as L’Estabel, had a sparkling clean facility, where even the floors were immaculate. While the number of oak casks doesn’t necessarily determine quality, L’Estabel had only 20, of varying ages, compared to Santadi’s impressive collection of 3,000 French barriques in their elegant barrel hall. Furthermore, Santadi has embraced current winemaking trends by experimenting with ageing wine in imported terracotta pots from Tuscany since 2019.
The sophistication and success of Santadi can be attributed, in part, to the visionary leadership of its chairman, Antonello Pilloni. Since 1976, Pilloni has focused on elevating Santadi’s wines. In 1980, he enlisted the renowned oenologist Giacomo Tachis, well known for his work with Antinori, to guide Santadi in producing fine wines of higher value sold in bottles. The result was the creation of Terre Brune, aged in barriques since 1984, followed by Rocca Rubia, a sister wine made with earlier-maturing grapes. These wines are crafted from Carignan vines that thrive in sandy soils near the captivating, emerald sea. Carignano del Sulcis, a wine from this region, attains heights unsurpassed by other Carignans. Today, Santadi produces a range of exceptional wines in all three colors and pays its grape growers more than any other Italian wine cooperative, second only to the best in subalpine Trentino-Alto Adige.
At Santadi, there is a dedicated winemaker and agronomist, supported by an app developed in collaboration with the University of Turin. This app provides Santadi’s 220 growers with valuable information about the state of their vines. The question remains: how can Santadi afford all these advancements? Their homepage provides a clue, with a box that states “Campaign financed according to EU regulation N. 1308/13.” Italian wine producers have become adept at navigating bureaucratic avenues to access useful funds. Italy has received nearly €5 billion from the EU since 2009, the largest sum among all EU member states for promoting wine outside the EU. While restructuring plays a significant role in this funding, each winery has its own approach to securing financial support.
Overall, Stone, Vine & Sun’s journey through the Languedoc and Sardinia revealed the striking differences between wine cooperatives. While L’Estabel impresses with its exceptional wines and commitment to organic production, their winery leaves much to be desired. Conversely, Santadi sets a standard of sophistication with its state-of-the-art facilities and focus on creating fine wines of outstanding quality. These experiences highlight the crucial roles of vision, leadership, and access to financial resources in shaping the success of wine cooperatives.
If you’re looking for superior cooperative wines, Stone, Vine & Sun recommends:
L’Estabel:
– Grande Cuvée Comtesse 2022 Languedoc 13% – £11.50
– Fulcrand, Cabanon 2022 Clairette du Languedoc 13% – €39.50 for six bottles
– Le Grand Pan 2022 Clairette du Languedoc Cabrières 13.5% – €49.50 for six bottles
Santadi:
– Antigua 2021 Monica di Sardegna 13.5% – From €8.89 in many European markets
– Noras 2020 Cannonau di Sardegna 15% – £21
– Rocca Rubia 2020 Riserva Carignano del Sulcis 14.5% – £21.70
– Shardana 2019 IGT Valli di Porto Pino 14.5% – SFr29
– Terre Brune 2019 Superiore Carignano del Sulcis 15% – £52.95
For detailed tasting notes, scores, and suggested drink dates, visit Purple Pages on JancisRobinson.com. To find international stockists, refer to Wine-searcher.com. Stay updated on the latest stories by following @FTMag.
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