In Sežana, James Bond slept until Sežana, according to Ian Fleming’s novel From Russia with Love. The town’s railway station, once bustling with activity, is now a quiet outpost. The Simplon-Orient-Express that Bond rode on is no longer in operation, and the border issues between Yugoslavia and Italy were resolved with Slovenia’s accession to the Schengen zone. However, there is still a remarkable railway in Sežana that is deserving of recognition.
The railway in Sežana runs north for 80 miles, offering magnificent views and scenery along the way. It was built in the early 20th century to accommodate the expanding Austro-Hungarian empire’s maritime trade after the opening of the Suez Canal. Despite the squabbles and ridicule it faced during its planning stages, the railway was completed in 1906.
Today, the railway through the Julian Alps stands as a testament to the Habsburg dynasty’s ambition. It offers a wonderful journey through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the eastern Alps. Locally known as the Bohinjska proga and more widely referred to as the Transalpina, this railway is a hidden gem waiting to be explored.
The journey begins in Sežana and takes passengers through vineyards and forests, with occasional stops at small stations along the way. Crossing the River Vipava, surrounded by lush vineyards, is a particularly scenic moment. The train then arrives at Nova Gorica, where passengers can set foot on Italian soil during a 15-minute stop.
Continuing on, the train crosses the longest stone-arch railway bridge in the world over the River Soča. This marks the beginning of a stunning ride through the Soča valley, where turquoise waters contrast with white cliffs and chasms. The Alpine style of the stations adds to the charm of the journey.
As the train climbs higher into the hills, the landscape becomes more alpine, with the Julian Alps in sight. The summit is marked by the four-mile Bohinj Tunnel, which divides the drainage of the valleys that flow south to the Adriatic from those that flow north to the Danube.
The railway is a lifeline for remote communities, especially during winter when the roads become impassable. From the station at the north end of the Bohinj Tunnel, it’s a short ride down to Bohinjska Bistrica. There, passengers can enjoy a 20-minute scenic ride to Lake Bled, one of Slovenia’s most famous destinations.
The final leg of the journey takes travelers to Jesenice, where the secondary rail route connects with the main line from Ljubljana to Villach in Austria. Jesenice, with its silent industrial furnaces and smelters, has a frontier feel, as Austria is just over the hills.
The railway station in Jesenice, now in decline, was once a bold modernist statement and a gateway to Yugoslavia for travelers coming from Austria. Today, it serves as a reminder of the changes brought about by political shifts and the decline of Habsburg power.
To experience this remarkable railway journey, it’s best to travel on weekdays, as there are more departures. From Sežana, there are four trains a day, with the earliest departure at 10.10. The journey time from Sežana to Jesenice is between three to five hours, depending on stopovers. Ticket prices have been reduced since August, and one-way fares start at €10.70.
Whether you’re a fan of James Bond or simply seeking a unique and scenic railway adventure, the journey from Sežana to Jesenice is sure to captivate and amaze. Explore Slovenia’s hidden gem and immerse yourself in the beauty of the Julian Alps.
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