I found myself immersed in an otherworldly environment as I weaved through an underwater forest. The russet strands of seaweed billowed around me like the flowing hair of mermaids. Snorkeling in this area of Brora, Scotland, was a unique experience that offered both shallow waters where I could feel the sand scraping against my fins and deep areas where the kelp-covered rocks seemed to disappear into the abyss. Suddenly, a sudden movement caught my eye, causing me to spin around and discover my guide, Rhionna, pointing out a small crimson-red sea anemone on a dark rock. Its tentacles quivered gracefully in the current.
After our snorkeling adventure, Rhionna and I sat in the shallows, removing our fins and allowing ourselves to be carried by the rhythmic waves. From the vantage point above, a group of curious campervanners watched us with bemusement. I couldn’t blame them – like them, I had never associated the North Sea, especially northern Scotland, with snorkeling. As I made my way up to the car park, one of the campervanners asked me how it was. With a smile straining my cheeks, I replied, “Absolutely brilliant.”
Brora, located on the east coast of Sutherland, is nearly 60 miles north of Inverness. Passing through the A9, which is part of the North Coast 500 route, one can easily overlook the village. All you see are a few shops and well-maintained workers’ cottages made of gray stone, remnants of Brora’s coal mining years. It is most likely that people have heard of Brora because of its golf course or distillery, not for its snorkeling.
Rhionna, from Sutherland Adventure Company, offers various water sports activities, including snorkeling. My day started with paddleboarding at Loch Brora, around four miles inland. Rhionna mentioned that if conditions were right, we could have paddled downriver to the beach and snorkelled from our boards. However, being in the Highlands means being prepared to adapt plans, as we experienced with the windy conditions at the loch.
Nevertheless, being out on the loch was a delight. With a cornflower-blue sky above and gentle hills that still bear the marks of the Highland clearances surrounding us, it was a serene experience. I had been worried about embarrassing myself on the water, but Rhionna’s excellent teaching had me confidently paddling around the island in the middle of the loch in no time.
The village of Brora offers only a handful of places to stay, mostly self-catering options. That’s why I chose the elegant Royal Marine hotel, located next to the golf course and opposite the harbour. It stood out as the best choice, offering everything from water sports to golf, fishing, hiking, biking, whisky, and beautiful beaches. According to Billy McKechnie, the hotel’s general manager, the beach in Brora stretches for two miles and is virtually empty. It was even awarded the Keep Scotland Beautiful Beach Award for 2022.
For dinner, I had local seafood at the hotel’s restaurant, which exuded an unpretentious yet sophisticated atmosphere with its warm colors and comfortable seats. Afterward, I took a short walk to the main beach to witness its beauty firsthand. While we had snorkeled off the rockier southern stretch of the beach, the northern part revealed a breathtaking expanse of soft golden sand that seemed to stretch endlessly. The sky above was adorned with dusky shades of blue and pink, reminiscent of a Georgia O’Keeffe painting. Apart from a lone bodyboarder and a few groups of oystercatchers, the beach was deserted.
The next day, I embarked on a coastal walk to the neighboring village of Golspie, roughly six miles to the south. As the tide receded, the area where I had snorkeled the previous day was exposed. The seaweed, now muddy-colored, limp against the rocks, seemed to have lost its luster with the sea’s retreat. As I alternated between the path and the sand, I suddenly felt a watchful presence. Turning toward the sea, I realized that what I had mistaken for craggy boulders were actually seals. Dozens of them were perched on rocks and in the shallows, studying me with their innocent eyes.
The stretch of coast south of Golspie had a wilder feel compared to the smooth and long beach I had walked the previous night. Along the way, I encountered ancient rocks weathered with age, waterfalls, shallow caves, and the Iron Age roundhouse known as Carn Liath. As I approached Golspie, the French-inspired Dunrobin Castle appeared, and the path wound through its vibrant woodlands alive with birdsong. Aside from the seals and a few cows, I encountered no one until I reached Golspie.
Although I had planned to explore the village, I realized that I had just enough time to catch the 10-minute train back to Brora. Eager not to miss out on a sunny afternoon at the beach, I retraced the route I had just walked from the vantage point of the railway line above. The village welcomed me back with an appropriate treat for the beach: a delicious ice cream from Capaldis of Brora, a local establishment with a history dating back to 1932. Children splashed in the river mouth, and couples enjoyed picnics in the dunes, but the main stretch of sand remained empty. Billy’s words from the previous night echoed in my mind – “It’s a shame, because there really should be a lot more people here. But then, we’d have to share it with them.” He was right, of course. Having such a beautiful beach all to oneself felt like a precious gift. Looking ahead at the vast expanse of sand, perfect for digging holes and building sandcastles, I thought there was certainly room for a few more people to enjoy it.
I stayed at the Royal Marine hotel, with bed and breakfast rates starting from £109 per night. Sutherland Adventure Company provided the water sports activities, including a combined paddleboarding and snorkeling experience priced at £60 per person.
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