When journalist Anne-Marie Schiro first introduced the term “fast fashion” to describe Zara International’s arrival in Manhattan in 1989, little did she know the impact it would have on the fashion industry. Zara’s unique approach of producing fresh styles within a mere 15 days of conception at their Spanish headquarters resonated with young people on a budget, who were constantly changing their clothes to keep up with trends. This signaled the beginning of a new era in fashion.
Since then, fast fashion has evolved and expanded. European giants like H&M and Primark have been joined by more aggressive and social-media-savvy brands such as Boohoo and Shein. Together, they have revolutionized the speed at which clothes are created, consumed, and discarded. However, this abundance of cheap, short-lived garments has come at a tremendous environmental and social cost.
The European Commission estimates that the average European throws away 12kg of clothes each year, making textile consumption the fourth highest contributor to environmental destruction. Recognizing the need for change, the European Union (EU) has outlined its vision to reform the fashion sector. By 2030, the EU aims to have textile products imported into the market be long-lasting, recyclable, made from recycled materials, free of hazardous substances, and produced with respect for social rights and the environment. This initiative aligns with the concept of a circular economy, where consumption and waste are minimized.
The EU hopes that its legislation will inspire policymakers worldwide to adopt similar measures and encourage brands to reevaluate their business practices, benefiting every market where their clothes are sold. Virginijus Sinkevičius, the EU’s environment commissioner, believes that involving the industry in this process will lead to a more responsible approach. However, achieving these goals requires changes to existing legislation, awareness campaigns, and imposing the responsibility of waste treatment onto producers.
While these efforts are commendable, sustainability advocates argue that the proposals lack specificity and concrete measures. Maxine Bédat, author of Unraveled: The Life and Death of a Garment, emphasizes the importance of turning intentions into laws. Additionally, there is a lack of infrastructure necessary to meet the new waste and recycling targets. Recycling facilities often struggle with fabrics made of multiple fibers and the cost of extracting contaminants such as elastane. Technological solutions to achieve a truly circular fashion industry remain elusive.
The rise of ultrafast online retailers has exacerbated the negative impact of fashion on the environment. The production of cheap, poor-quality clothes made from synthetic fabrics derived from fossil fuels has reached unprecedented levels. These garments often have little to no resale value and end up being incinerated or filling landfills for centuries. Global textile production, with 81% used by the clothing industry, has nearly doubled between 2000 and 2015. Furthermore, apparel and footwear consumption is expected to increase by 63% between 2022 and 2030.
This throwaway culture has led consumers to view clothes as disposable. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation reports that over half of all fast fashion is discarded within a year. The low prices of brands like Shein make it more convenient for consumers to buy new items rather than repair existing clothing or purchase second-hand alternatives.
The fast fashion model has also been associated with exploitative working conditions. The Rana Plaza tragedy in Bangladesh in 2013 shed light on the dire circumstances faced by garment workers. Despite the calls to action that followed, progress in reforming the industry has been slow. Some advocate for legal requirements for brands to pay living wages across their supply chains. Currently, the fashion industry is largely self-regulated, with only a few EU member states implementing schemes to hold producers financially responsible for their waste.
Industry leaders like H&M, Zara, and Primark have implemented “take-back” schemes where customers can drop off worn clothing from any brand in exchange for a discount on future purchases. However, these initiatives have faced criticism for perpetuating consumption. Greenwashing is also prevalent, with brands marketing themselves as more sustainable and climate-friendly than they truly are.
The EU has attempted to address this issue with its Green Claims Directive, aiming to regulate how businesses verify their environmental claims. The directive sets minimum criteria for statements, and non-compliant claims will be banned. However, substantiating these claims can be costly, ranging from €500 to €54,000.
Despite the challenges, the EU’s efforts represent a step in the right direction towards a more sustainable fashion industry. Concrete measures, specific targets, and collaborations with stakeholders will be essential for achieving a truly circular fashion economy. With global pressure mounting to combat climate change, the fashion industry must embrace responsible practices to ensure a more sustainable future.
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