The Pleasures of River and Lake Swimming in Zürich: Discovering Badi Behavior

Zürich, located 330km away from the sea, is renowned as one of the ultimate urban swimming destinations in the world. While other cities boast stunning coastlines and sandy beaches, the convenience and accessibility of swimming in Zürich is unparalleled. From May to October, and even year-round for those truly adventurous, the city offers pristine and crystal-clear urban water just minutes away from its bustling streets. In the summer months, it’s not uncommon to see downtown residents strolling in their Speedos or carrying vibrant inflatable toys without attracting a second glance.

Zürich is brimming with open-air swimming facilities that cater to all preferences. During my second year in Zürich, I stumbled upon the brilliance of waterproof bags, a must-have for any serious resident. While commuting in Zürich is generally a breeze, my perception of the city transformed when I experienced the luxury of drifting down the warm waters of the Limmat River after a meeting, with my work clothes neatly tucked away in my trusty waterproof bag. I couldn’t help but wish that I could commute this way every day, even as a freelance worker.

Zürich’s Badi-Kultur, or bathing culture, is one of the city’s most delightful and well-kept secrets. With an impressive range of facilities, all efficiently maintained, clean, and user-friendly, the Badis (plural for Badi) truly represent the essence of Swiss excellence. While you can technically dive into the lake or river anywhere you desire (except the central area where it’s restricted due to boat traffic), the city is adorned with public bathing facilities known as the Badis. These Badis provide changing rooms, showers, lockers, and even refreshments, many of which are available free of charge. Open to everyone, the official season usually begins in mid-May and continues until October. No membership or bookings are required, and most Badis are operational from around 8 or 9 in the morning until 7 or 8 in the evening.

To help inhabitants and visitors alike, the city of Zürich offers a convenient webpage that provides daily updates on water temperatures and crowd levels. The Badis vary in style, amenities, and suitability for different preferences. Some cater to serious swimmers, while others are perfect for sunbathing enthusiasts or those who enjoy a refreshing spritz. Here are some of the top Badis that even tourists with limited time can’t resist visiting for a swim. (Please note that the opening hours mentioned are standardized, but may vary depending on weather conditions and specific times of the year in the afternoon and evening. Visit the respective websites for confirmation if necessary.)

Frauenbad am Stadthausquai
Stadthausquai 12, 8001 Zürich

Ideal for: Taking a dip in the heart of the city in a sophisticated setting
Not recommended for: Men
Entrance fee: Adults (women only) – SFr8; Under 16s – SFr4
Opening hours: Daily, 7am–7.30pm
FYI: On Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday evenings, the Frauenbad transforms into the famous Barfussbar (Barefoot Bar), which welcomes men as well. It’s a delightful spot to enjoy a drink on a hot summer evening, complete with live music acts and DJs.

Zürich’s current Frauenbad, built in 1888, traces its origins back to 1837 when the city lifted the ban on public bathing for women. As it was unimaginable for women to bathe alongside men, a separate facility had to be constructed. The current Baths, an elegant Belle Époque platform floating on the Limmat River, showcase refined architecture and offer two 30m pools, shaded decks, and sunbathing spots. The facility also provides showers, individual changing cubicles, and a small kiosk serving snacks and drinks. This is the perfect place to indulge in your hidden Merchant Ivory-inspired swimming fantasies, complete with a book and a parasol.

Männerbad Schanzengraben
Badweg 10, 8044 Zürich

Ideal for: A calm and quick swim
Not recommended for: Sunbathing
Entrance fee: Free
Opening hours: Daily, 11am–6.30pm
FYI: The pool is only open to men during the day. In the evenings, weather permitting, it transforms into Rimini Bar, a waterside bar open to all.

Nestled in the city moat on the western side of the old town, the compact men’s pool at Männerbad Schanzengraben offers a serene and secluded spot to cool off. The water flows from the lake into this location, creating a nearly still current. This tranquil and lush setting provides an ideal respite from the sweltering summer heat in Zürich. Just a short five-minute walk from Zürich’s main business district, this pool is perfect for a refreshing dip. Additionally, the adjacent Hallenbad City is an indoor chlorinated pool housed in a striking Art Deco building, perfect for those seeking a more serious swimming experience.

Seebad Utoquai
Utoquai 50, 8008 Zürich

Ideal for: Enjoying the evening sun while feeling chic
Not recommended for: Bringing your own vibe, as the atmosphere is more formal compared to Letten Badi. Although children are allowed, they may get bored.
Entrance fee: Adults – SFr8; Under 16s – SFr4
Opening hours: Daily, 9am–7pm
FYI: There’s a small yet well-equipped sauna facility (exclusive to members) and massage therapists available throughout the year (booking essential).

Seebad Utoquai, originally constructed as a “Moorish-style” swimming pavilion in 1890, rests gracefully on the lake shore, just beyond the Opera House. While the current design no longer includes the domes and mock minarets from the original structure (removed in the 1940s), Art Nouveau elements still adorn this sophisticated swimming location. Featuring two small pools divided by gender, with separate changing areas, along with diving boards and steps leading directly into the lake, this spot exudes elegance and charm. Swimmers can also enjoy two floating platforms situated 30m offshore, perfect for lounging. Additionally, Seebad Utoquai offers a mixed sauna (with mandatory nudity) and elevated sun terraces to bask in the sunlight. The on-site café serves wine and snacks, with tables on the deck for lounging, working, or socializing under the shining sun.

Flussbad Oberer Letten
Lettensteg 10, 8037 Zürich

Ideal for: Socializing and enjoying the vibrant atmosphere
Not recommended for: Seeking solitude or engaging in intense physical exercise
Entrance fee: Free
Opening hours: Daily, 9am–8pm
FYI: Mixed bathing allowed. The Letten channel is open for swimming at any time, though amenities follow daylight hours. The current can be strong, making it unsafe for young children.

If there’s one place in Zürich that defies expectations, it’s Flussbad Oberer Letten. On warm days, the banks of the Letten Oberwasserkanal, the deeper channel running alongside the stony Limmat River (which splits at a weir near the National Museum as it flows out of the lake), transform into a vibrant oasis filled with sunbathers and water enthusiasts. By evening, it becomes a massive celebration. The northern bank of the channel is lined with bars and tends to be livelier, while the southern bank features the beautiful 1950s Oberer Letten pavilion. This pavilion offers showers, changing facilities, and mobile-phone-sized lockers for valuables, all free of charge. Access to the pavilion is granted via the Lettensteg footbridge slightly downstream. Bathers can enjoy the current as they float down the river, immersing themselves in the energetic ambiance.

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